Grahamstown is again willingly bracing itself to receive its annual R50 million injection playing host for ten days to the National Arts Festival (NAF). This, despite rapid growth – both in the number of new festivals springing up around the country and their attendance. The Klein Karroo Nasionale Kunstefees (KKNK) may only have half the number of productions, but has overtaken the NAF by about 30% in ticket sales. Yet nothing beats the Grahamstown event for breadth, variety and (to use that uniquely South African term coined by Government Communications) ‘representivity’.

Although the festival is showing a subtle trend towards regionalism, artists from every corner of the republic are here with 494 productions at the last count. Pulling patrons away are the festivals in other provinces, while interventions by the Eastern Cape Provincial government are pushing the participation of Eastern Cape groups. It’s a welcome change from being in many ways the orphan province under the previous dispensation.

Further proof that when there is political will and a few officials with initiative things start to develop, is found in the Limpopo Province. It has no state funded theatre and its artists receive 2% of the National Arts Council budget, yet here they are with six productions. Last year it was one.

Artists have come from the rest of Africa too, including a jazz group from Zimbabwe, dancers from Ethiopia, The Committed Artists of Namibia (with a political piece called The Porridge Queen), and dramatic troupes from Swaziland, Botswana and Malawi (bringing a Norwegian co-production of Ibsen’s A Doll House, entitled Breaking the Pot), but its not nearly as many as one would expect from the biggest arts festival on the continent.

From further abroad, the largest foreign presence – dozens of artists from Europe and the Americas – are at the Standard Bank Jazz Festival and the New Music Indaba. The latter has as a theme re-imagining Mozart, and even includes a compoistion for piano and cellphone.

Despite the hugely varied nature of the festival, the centre of gravity remains drama – still the largest part of the main and fringe programmes. Predictably, theatre on the main is dominated by pro-active impresarios like Pieter Toerien, the dynamic theatres like the Market and the Baxter (which alone accounts for a third of the programme), while our state theatres – Artscape, Civic, Playhouse, PACOFs have almost no presence.

Festivals are for trying out new work, and there are almost 50 premieres this time. The most notable is Athol Fugard’s latest play Booitjie and the Oubaas and Coupé by Standard Bank Young Artist Award Winner for Drama, Sylvaine Strike. A noteworthy influence this year are the many new productions arising from the Performing Arts Network of South Africa (PANSA) Festival of Contemporary Theatre Readings, such as Three Dozen Roses, Peter Krummeck’s iVirgin Boy and Mike van Graan’s Some Mothers’ Sons.

Although there are many recognisable names from the veteran guard of actors and stalwart theatre practitioners – the Ellenbogens (Great White), Zakes Mda (We Shall Sing for the Fatherland) Marthinus Basson (Thneed for Life and Laughing Wild), Robert Kirby (The Secret Letters of Jan van Riebeeck), Christopher Weare (Bonhoeffer), Peter Hayes (The Tricky Part) – though no sign of Des and Dawn for once – many seasoned patrons (and a few seasoned critics I’ve met) seem baffled by the flood of young artists and theatre groups on the fringe, mostly black and still largely unknown.

One of these, which cancelled at the last minute, titled 100% Zuluboy…Burn the Bitch was probably too good to be true. The NAF remains the only festival with no selection panel and an open fringe. Looking at the blurbs for the shows it is therefore either a democratic platform reflecting the state of the national conscience or a bias in funding criteria. The new black work is overwhelmingly concerned with social issues – women and child abuse, rape as a cure to HIV – or in one case the lack of delivery: “this play is a scathing indictment against the government’s indifference” it declares, but concludes as “told by Mawilla, the local dagga-smoking social commentator”.

The artists are getting more media savvy, but some of the synopses raise eyebrows – “The son conspires to murder his father after an Indian steals the cheque from them”.

Almost a third of the fringe is performed in English with an African language. Afrikaans too is up from one to six productions this year, but nothing near to the vital force it used to be. It’s rather myopic on the side of producers given the potential audience from Port Elizabeth alone.

There are as usual a glut of one-person stand-ups and comic duos, with some reliable returns – Black Mamba, Hoot, The Most Amazing Show, Moron than Off, and promising new work from Gaetan Smit (The Dog’s Bollocks), Sonia Esguera (Porra), and Rob van Vuuren (Electric Juju) to mention a few.

Physical theatre remains a strong component, but sadly, this year’s festival sees 16 Kinds of Emptiness as the swan song of Gary Gordon’s brilliant First Physical Theatre Company, which officially launched at the NAF in 1993. It’s all the more cruel when you consider they were a finalist a few years ago in the Arts and Culture Trust’s category for Best Funded Project.

Student Theatre is still budding, and this year the City Varsity Cape Town has joined in with Rob Murray’s Dumbshow.

The visual arts component is the largest in the history of the festival with 39 registered exhibitions, compelling the organisers to produce its own route map. The highlight is Churchill Madikida’s Like Father Like Son? which is itself a dramatic personal narrative.

A first for the festival is a programme of urban performance poetry including Black Reflections with Prophet JD, a tribute to the Soweto uprisings thirty years ago. There are also plenty of poems in book and talks on books at the Wordfest.

And if all this live entertainment is too much, patrons can retire to the film festival, which includes the premieres of Richard E. Grant’s Wah-Wah and Dornford-May’s Son of Man.

It is hardly a moot point that the lack of dramas in African languages on our stages borders on the astonishing, if not the schizophrenic. After all, the visionary Sol Plaatje was translating several of Shakespeare’s plays into Setswana including A Comedy of Errors (Diposho-posho) in the 1920s and Robert Sobukwe was even working on a Zulu translation of Macbeth in the 1950s. Play after play is performed in English even when this seems very contrived. Reasons there are, but it is hard to accept that at the 31st National Arts Festival (NAF) there was still not a single African language play on the main stage. Even in film it has been a problem. I suspect that part of the success of Tsotsi and U-Carmen eKhayelitsha was that they were in the languages of reality.

Equally, it should also be of concern that there is almost no Afrikaans theatre – historically a vital energy in our cultural landscape – at the NAF. In the last decade we have seen more division, not less. One of the only Afrikaans pieces at the NAF last year was Kobus Moolman’s Full Circle about disenfranchised poor white Afrikaans right-wing fundamentalists plotting to overthrow the democratic government – performed in English! This may be perfect symbolism. But it’s a cultural disaster for the taal if Afrikaans theatre practitioners withdraw into their own festival laager in Oudsthoorn and don’t put in at Grahamstown. The biggest festival in terms of tickets sold is now Oudsthoorn, and it is close to being exclusively Afrikaans.

The encouraging news regarding African language drama is that the University of Cape Town’s first full-length isiXhosa-only production (no subtitles) is apparently almost sold out. Kudos are due to director Thoko Ntshinga who has adapted GBS Xundu’s lengthy novel Kusalawula Yena for the stage. The projection of a digital clock dramatises the timeframe and video footage gives us the off-stage action – a little protracted in the first half. A grade 12 setwork, learners have been struggling with Xundu’s deep vernacular Xhosa. The play version has helped enormously.

The cast of second and third year students are young, but mature. Xolisa Kapakati plays Sesh Betinja, a God-fearing and successful young man who falls prey to a syndicate of professional con artists out to milk him in every possible way. We watch to see if Sesh, through his stubborn – almost naive – perseverance, will finally out manoeuvre the sharks. During the course of ninety minutes, he remains clear-headed and steady, though he is fleeced, robbed, mugged, nearly arrested, held up at gunpoint and beaten.

A production of this nature holds great touring possibilities. The previous performing arts’ councils regularly toured schools with setworks and dramatic extracts to introduce scholars to the magical world of theatre. Why the present department of education, and arts and culture, are not conducting similar initiatives on a massive scale is distressingly myopic. South Africa has a vast untapped audience waiting to discover theatre, especially if productions are to be in indigenous languages.

Another Grade 12 setwork, Nosel’eyibethile Akakayoji, will be directed by Itumeleng Wa-Lehulere at Artscape from May 9 to 20.

As a white student at Rhodes University in the 1980s I felt deeply conflicted by the stark contrasts that confronted one at festival time – the all-white bourgeoisie in their fur coats watching Sleeping Beauty – while on the hill someone was being “necklaced” with a burning tyre. We didn’t believe in burning anything, certainly not books or culture, so instead a protest artist gagged himself and wrapped in bandages sat on a plinth in the Monument.

In the year Mandela was released Zebelon Dread would stand on his soap box and tell the bemused festinos that soon they would all be driven into the sea. People clapped and bought his home-made newspaper.

As a producer in the early 1990s, with our protest culture still in tact and at a time when the festival was at its commercial peak – to the point of bursting – some of us considered burning barricades in High Street and taking our anger to the streets. Here we were, the artists, used to bait the hook. We took ALL the financial risks and felt shabbily treated. It was us who brought the crowds to the town, to the shops, the petrol stations, and the food stalls selling everything from kartoffel to kudu wors, while the locals gouged ever more greedily, renting out caravans in their backyards at hotel prices and the halls hiked their already prohibitive hire fees.

I hope now we’re getting over the tendency to blame the festival for the failings of the country. The contrasts in Grahamstown remain as stark as ever. The poverty is appalling, but it’s a reflection of the national scourge of unemployment, AIDS – the economy. These uncomfortable truths are not unique to this town – it’s simply more obviously defined, by the lines of begging ragged children pretending to be statues, their faces masked white with crumbled stone, and the man who for five rand will play a game of chess with you. Together with beautiful craft work – some of it clearly an artistic celebration in its own right – a brisk, seemingly uncontrolled trade in grey goods – thrives on the pavements. The festival does filter money down to the bottom-feeders.

It also creates a small army of casual jobs and much informal employment, but the wealth of the country is here in the cultural ebullience. A jam-packed hall of people cheering a community performer is an enrichment that is hard to calculate.

Along with the change in political climate, has been a meteorological climate change. Among the stubbornly persistent myths about Grahamstown – that it’s a white Eurocentric culture fest – is the myth – fuelled by long sessions of sitting in unheated auditoriums – that Grahamstown is always wet and freezing. Since the turn of the new century the festival experiences blue skies, and long dry hot days (as I write this it is 24 degrees) and it seldom falls below temperatures common to the Highveld nights.

After a long slow thaw the festival is now transforming at a remarkable pace – a genuine melting pot of culture that reflects a restless society. This year black patrons are flocking to the fringe festival loaded with black professional and community theatre groups presenting plays, many such as Nkosi Sikelela i-Africa and Soweto Class of 76 reclaiming the historical past from colonial and apartheid depictions.

More often the plays are about conscientizing the public around contemporary social issues, with titles like Respect, Honour and Love. A glance through the billing for various productions turns up the following snippets: “strives to put across a safe-sex, non-discriminational (sic) message about HIV/AIDS”, “reflects on the importance of education and the danger of child abuse”, “crime is morally and legally unacceptable”, “about rural men leaving their families behind and going to the city of gold…they meet vampires who do nothing but suck the very marrow from their bones”. And so on. These are funding proposal clips that are unlikely to be effective marketing teasers. Ain’t Over is subtitled “Justice is White”, while the production Ha – Mokoena is followed by discussion sessions on rape.

There are some more solid pieces – stories about people’s personal struggles within the broader sweep of society and events, such as the excellent Like Cain and Abel by playwright Thapelo Motloung, about the lack of acceptance of bisexuality in the black community.

With over five hundred shows and a series of smaller festivals within its compass – the Film Festival, Wordfest, Jazzfest (and the Cathedral even has a SpiritFest) – it is without a doubt the national festival for arts. The big international names of the past – Berkoff, Nederlands Dans – no longer come, but there are Javanese puppets, Dutch street theatre, Acty Tang’s solo amaQueer-Kwere and African Bollywood – which among other numbers contains an enthusiastic all-male black troupe dressed as Zulu warriors doing synchronised Indian Bollywood dances – a vivid celebration of our diversity and variety or national funding policy taken to an ultimate absurd conclusion?

Reasons there are, but it is hard to accept that the 31st festival still doesn’t have a single African language play on the main stage, though there are already feature films in Zulu and Xhosa. Certainly the fringe is leading the main festival.

What should also be a concern is the almost total lack of Afrikaans theatre which is historically a vital energy in our cultural landscape. One of the only Afrikaans pieces is about Cape coloured gangsters and has a misleading English title – Angels Everywhere. Kobus Moolman’s Full Circle about disenfranchised poor white Afrikaans fundamentalists is performed in English – this may be perfect symbolism – but it’s a cultural disaster for the taal if Afrikaans theatre practitioners withdraw into their own festival laager in Oudsthoorn and don’t put in at Grahamstown.

Festival Committee Chairman, Mannie Manim, says there is urgent need for more corporate sponsors to take the festival forward and Festival Director, Lynette Marais, says the greatest financial obstacle currently is the exorbitant cost of hiring equipment which could be avoided if they had infrastructural investment.

A paucity of venues in the townships and the lack of funds to do more free street theatre and concerts are future challenges that need addressing.

Sleeping Beauty is back this year, but so are the Eluxolweni Girls and Boys Shelter on Drostdy Lawn putting on a play about life in Rhini township. Marais tells me of emergent groups from a few years ago growing now to professional status. It’s the same kind of pleasure we all share in our country when I pass my old High School grounds and see the playing fields filled with skinny black legs playing soccer on the cricket pitch.